At 90K, I switched to a universal coolant (Prestone, I think) in our 98 Toyota Sienna. It's OK to trust the label of a reputable coolant manufacturer if they say their coolant is compatible with your vehicle - they wouldn't be in business if their product was snake oil. Universal coolants are formulated to be compatible with a wide range of coolant systems. The purpose of these chemicals is to protect the metals in the cooling system and inhibit corrosion. Specifically, a coolant with phosphate but no silicates, borates, 2-EHA, or nitrites - I might be missing a chemical there. Toyota specifies a P-HOAT (phosphate hybrid organic acid technology) type coolant for current models, back to mid 1990's. Try to do the drain and refill with front of car higher than the rear (if you put front wheels up on ramps it also enables you to get access to coolant expansion bottle from under the car) as this allows air to come out easier.Click to expand.I say phooey on the the Toyota coolant. If your heater does not work very well after the coolant change you will probably have an airlock in the heater circuit. Its a pity that the Jazz doesn't have a proper temperature gauge because the first sign that you have an airlock in the cooling system is the temperature gauge goes a lot higher than normal. Remember the ethylene glycol anti-freeze bit does not lose effectiveness over time, all you are doing is making sure the corrosion inhibitors (which do get used up) are being replenished. If you want you can suck out the fluid from bottle with a siphon thing (available from home-brew shops) and refill to halfway between max and min level. I would use a premixed 50/50 solution of universal OAT or HOAT (slicate free) Halfords do a 5 litre universal one, I use it in my motorbikes and cars - I just drain whatever would come out from the normal tap in bottom of radiator (about half the system quantity) and top it up with 50/50 premix, then run the car for a week and do the same (this way you will replace at least 75% of coolant), keep your eye on the radiator level for a while after both procedures and top up if needed, I have never bothered draining and refilling the expansion bottle (you either need to remove the battery or go under the car to remover the bottle). Chemists use DI water because they are pretty sure it will not contain unwanted chemicals and upset their experiments. Systems that use DI water are designed with great care, and cannot contain metals normally found in a car engine (aluminium, copper, steel and brass) - some electronic and electrical cooling systems use DI water because it does not conduct electricity, but these systems are designed for DI. remember to keep the reservoir at the right level and check back for level after 20-30miles.ĭon't let de-ionised water near your car (except in the battery) - chemical engineers call it the 'universal solvent' as it will scavenge its lost Ions (electrically positive charged particles) back from any material (especially metals) that it comes into contact with. remove the top hose from radiator and lift it as high as you can and then pour coolant into it waiting to let the air bubbles come out.when you are confident there are no more bubbles, you can refit the hose and top up the radiator. best trick i have seen is when the radiator is filled. Simply drain the radiator and fill it with fresh coolant but you have to carefully remove all air from the cooling system and it can be a right pain. With regards to the leak, I doubt you can swap the heater core out yourself. You can use something like this to check the condition of the coolant and decide what you want to do with it The normal service schedule states that the coolant must be replaced at 200,000 km (120,000 miles) or 10 years, then replace every 100,000 km (60,000 miles) or 5 years.
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